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Distilling is a complex process dating back to the 12th century. In the United States, before prohibition, there were over 2,000 distilleries coast to coast. During prohibition, that number dropped to six. Not 6,000. Just six. And that was only because whiskey was thought to have some medicinal properties (and some will argue this is still the case). 

Luckily, we’re past prohibition. Wisconsin alone currently hosts over 30 small distilleries – one of which is Stevens Point’s very own Great Northern Distilling! Rob, Bryan, and Bill got together with Great Northern’s master distiller Brian Cummins in his brand new facility in downtown Stevens Point to talk about his journey from paper science to producing spirits. 

Brian started out using his chemistry background in the paper industry and had weathered a few mill closures. He was entertaining the thought of a career move, when in 2012 he visited the (late, great) Marvel Bar in Minneapolis to enjoy some handmade craft cocktails. Talk turned to distilling your own spirits when one of his friends casually said, “Wouldn’t that be something fun to do?” Brian thought about this for a while, figuring that Wisconsin has a good number of craft breweries, but not many small distilleries. The next year, he and his partners started Great Northern Distilling in Plover. 

One of Great Northern’s driving philosophies is that the upper Midwest offers everything you need for fine spirits. They source as many ingredients as they can from within 150 miles of the distillery, supporting local agriculture and smaller farms in the process. They started with local potatoes for their vodka grown just two miles from the distillery! Their grains come from Northern Tier Farm in Rhinelander, and their malt from Briess Malt & Ingredients Company in Chilton. Great Northern Distilling isn’t just a name! 

Obviously, Brian’s career shift paid off. Great Northern was doing well when in 2021 they had the opportunity to move to a new – and, Brian hoped, larger – facility. He took that chance to get closer to Stevens Point, ultimately building downtown on the site of the old Belke Lumber Building. They teamed up with Wanta & Son to design the new facility – and knocked it out of the park. 

The new Great Northern Distilling building is twice as big, with high ceilings and plenty of open space, including a private bar for events hosting up to 140 people. It’s a stylish steel facility that leans into a modern take on classic mid-century design. Think of the design you see in many of Wisconsin’s famous supper clubs: padded barstools & bar front, combed plywood and more, but updated with a modern twist. They even included white ash recovered from local trees that had to be taken down due to damage from emerald ash borers. 

It's not just an event space, though – it is a distillery after all. The most important part of the process is the stills themselves, so they imported custom-designed solid copper stills from Kothe in Germany. Brian explained the chemical reason for using copper in science talk, but basically it makes for a smoother spirit. 

Their tasting room is open to the public, and they've already had a few groups enjoy their event space. While there won’t be an official grand opening once the distillery is ready for tours, Brian said they are planning a celebration at that point, which should be posted on their social media. 

Once Great Northern is open to the public, everyone can enjoy their tasting room (with sharable foods like flatbread, smoked whitefish pate, and more) and book their event space. We’ll for sure be stopping in to enjoy their most popular drink: the Old Fashioned, of course! 

So what does the future hold once the doors officially open? Brian has been working with the Distiller’s Guild to update Wisconsin’s rather confusing liquor laws, which were thrown together quickly at the end of prohibition. There are some inconsistencies in how the laws are currently written, not taking into account the many different types of businesses involved in the production and consumption of spirits. Brian and the Guild are hoping to update the laws to make things a little more consistent for all business owners throughout Wisconsin who help us enjoy our local beers, wines and liquors. 

And what about Great Northern Distilling itself? Brian hopes in the future it will become an employee-owned business. He’s meeting with the UWSP business division to help map out that future to make sure it works for everyone. 

This week’s Road Trip: The guys visit the history of Wisconsin’s supper clubs! They talk about some of our more remarkable establishments and wistfully discuss their favorite menu items (relish trays, anyone?) before breaking down what makes a Wisconsin Old Fashioned unique…and why.  

Brian thinks the origin of the name “Old Fashioned” comes from the late 1800s. In the mid-1800s, whiskey was kind of gross and dirty. People had to mix in sugar and bitters just to make it palatable. Improvements in the distilling process made it much, much better by the late 1800s, but all the old timers preferred drinking their whiskey “the old-fashioned way” – and that’s how we make ‘em today!